Friday 24 October 2014

Please follow me...

I've had fun with this blog, but it's got to go.

Kritsotopoula, Girl of Kritsa published spring 2015, so I owe it to myself to focus, and not spread myself too thinly.

The book is available in Crete from Nikitakis gift shop in the centre of Kritsa and Eklektos Bookshop in Elounda. No matter where you are in the world the paperback and ebook versions are available from Amazon.

Please still keep in touch via Facebook, especially via

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kritsotopoula/578569575495354

and the group centred on events and places to visit in Lassithi

https://m.facebook.com/groups/647994498621251?ref=bookmark

You can follow me on Twitter @KritsaYvonne

 However, the place where I'd really love your company is at www.kritsayvonne.com

Finally, thanks for your interest to date, and please do keep in touch x





Sunday 10 August 2014

Two men on a quadbike

Although I generally write about adventures that I have with Alan, I had no part to play in this one, other than to type up Alan’s notes and this is probably why I forgot to make it ‘live’ on the blog.

So although I must apologise to Alan for the delay, at least it gave me something interesting to work on to pass a rainy August afternoon in the UK!

For Steve it was just another ride on his quad bike to photograph a rare flower, but for Alan it was his first experience of riding pillion on such a vehicle.  The first part of the trip was on standard tarmac roads, leaving Agios Nikolaos along the rising and dipping coast road signposted towards Sitia.  Just past Pachia Amos, Steve took a right turn, signed for Ierapetra to cross the flat expanse at the narrowest part of the island that is circa 10k wide.  This road passes under the massive face of the Thripti Mountains and passes the gaping mouth of the Ha Canyon.
Once at the south coast, Steve headed east along the coast road with a dramatic reduction in traffic.  Not stopping at the popular seaside town of Makrigialos or smaller Analipsi, Steve carried on to a turning on the right signposted Kalo Nero.  Now it took only ten minutes to reach the bottom of the Kapsa Gorge where there was room to park as the next phase was on foot.

From this point, the Kapsa Monastery looked down from its imposing position straddled across the right hand side of the gorge.  Bearing in mind Steve was carrying all his photographic kit this was a purposeful walk to find a specific plant rather than exploration of the gorge.  Never having been there before Alan found it an imposing gorge at first before it opened up to reveal a very high rock face with many plants and shrubs clinging to its sides.

While Alan enjoyed the contrast between the brightest of blue skies and the pink oleander in the gorge, Steve set up his camera to capture the shy Limonium cornarianum.  This very rare flower, known only from the Kapsa Gorge, tenaciously grew from a crack in the rock. 
 
As far as Steve was concerned it was ‘job done’, but Alan has added further exploration of the gorge to our ‘to do list’ conceding it was far too hot to consider walking further on this very hot June day.

After heading back past Makrigialos, Steve took the right fork signposted Orino, a place that benefits from constant running water to provide a lush growing area for cherries, plums, walnuts and brightly coloured flowers outside of the small group of houses.  The villagers maintain a delightful amphitheatre for their communal festivals and celebrations.


Now the long winding road took them ever higher towards the pass that crosses the Thripti Mountains.  Over the years, this road has benefited from tarmac and concrete in sections but in places, it is still a very rough dirt road.  Despite the bumps, Alan enjoyed the high seating position behind Steve that gave him fantastic views of the vineyards, towering peaks, long drops, and dry watercourses now full of vibrant oleander.



After emerging on the west facing side of the mountains, the road drops to Thripti village where the taverna provided a welcome lunch of traditional mezes to go with their beer.  Well, they had to wash the dust away!

Riding pillion had not proven too difficult for Alan but he did find the long, bumpy decent from Thripti a strain on his thighs, not that he knew it until the next day!

 
So, Steve was satisfied with his photo expedition,and Alan thoroughly enjoyed his trip and being with someone who is so knowledgeable about the area added that extra ‘something’.

If you are interested in finding out more about the flora of eastern Crete you will probably enjoy Steve’s website at http://www.cretanflora.com/

 

Wednesday 30 July 2014

Now you see it, now you don't...

Mirtos on the south coast of Lassithi was the destination for our last 'holiday' day before heading back to the UK.

After an hour or so, an odd cloud bank formed on the horizon and then rapidly made its way towards the coast.  Many people were taking photos of the spooky, hot sauna that enveloped us.  Here's mine, can you make out 3 boats not far from the shore!



This next shot is a couple of hours later when the murk had been blown away by a strong hot wind.


Our lunchtime waiter said that he'd never seen such a phenomenon so we count ourselves lucky to have witnessed it.


Sunday 20 July 2014

Holiday Postcard

Crete is such a big island we try to treat ourselves to at least one mini holiday per year and this time it was on the far south west to a place called Paleochora.  We choose our accommodation via Booking.Com and as we are well used to how basic Cretan rent rooms are for just €40 per night we were well satisfied.  Just wish I'd remembered to take my travel kettle as brewing tea in a tiny breki pan meant for Greek coffee took ages.

There is an iconic beach called Elafonsi that features on many postcards and went for a day trip by boat.  If we had taken a different boat we could have gone to Sougia, Aghia Roumeli, Loutro or Hora Sfakion. 

Elafonsi is nothing more than a sandbar but it creates a wonderful lagoon with shallow water that is ideal for children or a long romantic stroll.

 Its a bit like being at the Maldives,



If you ignore the thousands of other people who have arrived by boat, coach or car!!


Arriving or leaving Paleochora by boat provides a lovely view.


 At nighttime Paleochora is transformed as roads are closed and restaurants and bars use the roads for their tables and chairs, a really fabulous atmosphere.  Behind the seafront, the pedestrian lanes also became wall-to-wall restaurants but we always chose to eat facing the sea.


The next day we climbed up to the ruined Venetian castle for a different view, and then descended to the beach.


The drive home seemed very long so next time we will probably choose somewhere nearer.  We will stay at home and enjoy our own view today!

Saturday 28 June 2014

Midsummer

Remember these?   



My pretty May Day posy hung outside our front door, getting crisper by the day, until 20th June when Kritsa held a midsummer event in the main square.  Looking dry and dusty, my posy joined many other ready for the ritual burning.  However, as the flames needed leaping (ancient fertility rite), one of the stewards kept the pile relatively small, adding more as they burned away.


Despite this level of control, here is a lad looking a little wary as he assesses the chances of losing his virility instead of enhancing it!



Here the steward, in national dress demonstrates how to leap successfully.


 With live music and a free buffet, including wine and raki it was a very jolly event.  For those who were extra hungry there were a ‘few’ pork kebabs for only €1 – they must have cooked thousands. 


 Sunday 22nd June saw a classic car rally down by the main port of Agios Nikolaos.  The prized and polished participants were due to set off for Neapoli at 11.00 so we ambled down at 10.30 a.m. expecting to see a handful of cars.  Instead, the arena was full, and many people were enjoying the opportunity to browse among circa 60 vehicles.


Some good UK friends have one of these – must send them the photo!


 It was very hot when the first car set off, at the advertised time (quite un Cretan!) so we enjoyed a coffee in a shady bar to watch the cars pass.


 Here is Nikos in his lovely Lady.  Of course its off centre on purpose to show off the sea and sky.


After this, the temperature increased dramatically, so we adjusted our plans accordingly.  On the day we expected the mercury to tip 40c, we were on the beach by 7.45 a.m. fora picnic breakfast.  

You would think that as long the weather stays like this, we'd confine our adventures to those found within a book.  However, as I write this Alan is 'somewhere' up a mountain on the back of a very large quad bike...

Monday 9 June 2014

Chronia Polla (Χρονια Πολλα) Rodanthe

9th June is the Name Day for all Greek girls and women called Rodanthe when they are wished 'Χρονια Πολλα' (Chronia Polla), like 'Many Happy Returns' on a birthday.

Even though I'm not in Crete this year to celebrate I'll raise a glass, say 'Yamas' and dream that on this day in 2015 I'll be celebrating the event with a wee celebration for my book about Kritsa's most famous Rodanthe, now know as Kritsotopoula (Girl of Kritsa).

Below is one of my favourite photos of the relief sculpture of Rodanthe in her disguise as a male rebel at the point where her secret is about to be discovered!  The carving, sited at the 1823 battle ground, was made in local stone by Kritsa's resident sculptor Nigel Ratcliffe.  Cretans love to give people nicknames, and with a big nod to Michaelangelo, Nigel is known locally as 'Angelos'.


Wednesday 14 May 2014

Guided Flower Walk on Katharo

Seeing something familiar through someone else’s eyes often adds an interesting dimension so I eagerly accepted the opportunity to take a walk on Katharo Plateau with Steve Lenton, a keen amateur botanist who lives locally.
Although cooler on the plateau at circa 1,100 metres, some flowers had already started to die back.  With this in mind, keen botanists should aim to visit late March or April to see a wider variety of flowers.  That said, there was plenty to see.  

Now, take this quick quiz to test out if a walk with Steve would be enjoyable for you.  


Is the plant above:
A) Anacamptis pyramidalis
B) Pyramid orchid
C) Pretty pink one
Yes, you are correct!  So, chances are you will enjoy a walk with Steve.  It is a relatively flat walk on good paths so there is no need for walking boots, but perhaps not your best high heels!  Do remember a sunhat, sun cream, a bottle of water, and perhaps a piece of fruit to keep you going.

By taking the main road through Kritsa and then following the signs to the plateau, the road rises to give you fantastic views as it twists and turns.  If you are in a hire car, there is no need to worry, as there is a good surface all the way, and there are several places to stop so that even the driver can appreciate the scenery.  Just don’t be distracted if you see goats climbing trees!

Depending on how many stops you make, it will take circa 30 mins to drive from Kritsa to the parking area outside of the Katharo meeting point at Giannis’s taverna.  It is worth noting that you are welcome to use the taverna ‘loo’ even if you don’t want a drink before you set off.

Within yards of starting the walk, Steve shared some of the local folklore, and this added ‘extra’ peppered the walk like good seasoning.  With frequent stops to look at, and discuss the many specimens found along the way the walk was never strenuous.  One of the key facts that I enjoyed hearing was how the plateau has examples of plants that enjoy the extreme points of the compass with the most southerly, most northerly, most easterly, and most westerly specimens all in close proximity.

Throughout the walk, Steve guided our attention to plants, some rare or endemic to Crete, and explained the influence of local agricultural methods as an engaging chat, and never a lecture.  Sometimes we were wandering along chatting when Steve suddenly stepped off the path to show a specific specimen, even though it never once looked as if he was keeping a close eye on where we were.  Steve obviously does know the area like the back of his hand.  There is plenty of gentle humour too.  For example, look at this:


The Latin name is Onopordum bracteatum ssp. creticum.  Onopordum is derived from the Ancient
Greek, ονος-πορδον, Ass-fart!

Half way through our walk was a wide shady tree, a great place to sit on convenient rocks, and open our rucksacks for a drink and a snack.  Once refreshed our walk continued, and there were several points where Steve checked to see if we wanted a short cut back to the taverna or if we wanted to continue.  We chose to go on, and this meant walking through the water in the fast receding river.  In the annual race between the heat and developing tadpoles, the heat seemed to be heading for a win, and we certainly didn’t get very wet as we walked to the far side.
Once back at the taverna a cold beer was very welcome, and if you have time, I can recommend their chip omelette (a local tradition) and Greek salad, enough for two to share. 

When you plan your next trip to Crete, do book a walk with Steve, it is bound to give you a fantastic experience, and samples to treasure.  You can find a wealth of information, and Steve’s contact details on  www.exploringkatharo.com and www.cretanflora.com